Saturday, June 13, 2015

Mother Nature Has a pH Meter

Fibeartgourds sent me this photo of her hydrangea flowers. Note the color --  they are getting blue. 

First of all, yes, hydrangeas grow well in Hawaii's cooler areas. I happen to have one bush on my homestead farm, though it's taken a beating getting stepped on by the livestock. But the buggah is one tough plant and still blooms every year. Like Fineartgourd's flowers, mine are turning blue. 

Why bother to bring this topic up? Because hydrangeas are a natural soil pH indicator, assuming one very important condition......the presence of aluminum ions. Obviously Hawaiian soil has enough aluminum. 

Acidic soil is not present everywhere on this island. In fact there are areas where the soil is far too alkaline. But I happen to live downwind from an erupting volcano. Thus our rain is very acidic. Combine that with a low calcium content of the soil, the soil becomes acidic enough to turn our hydrangea flowers blue. Up closer to the eruption site, in the village of Volcano, the flowers are even more blue. 

It's just kind of fun to have Mother Nature's pH indicator growing on the farm. 

Friday, June 12, 2015

Broccoli Greens

Have you ever eaten broccoli leaves? Up until two years ago, I hadn't. In fact, I carefully removed any leaves around the base of a head of broccoli before cooking it. Why? I have no idea.

Young broccoli leaves are delicious. They make an excellent substitute for collards, if you like making a mess of greens. But rather than making a bowl of greens, I'll just add chopped broccoli leaves to stir fry and soups. Steamed first, they are nice in omelets. They are far tastier and tenderer than collards. In fact, I've stopped growing collards. It's broccoli greens for our table now.  

When I grow broccoli, I'll plant one area with the intention of harvesting the head and smaller florets. Another bed is destined for greens. The reason I separate the growing beds is that I pump extra manure to the bed for greens. That way the plants get giant and lush, producing lots of tender, big leaves. I find that rabbit manure makes for really nice broccoli greens. 

This bed of broccoli is in the community garden area. I have another up by the house for my personal use. Both are growing well, but the one up by my house has bigger, softer leaves. I think I over did the rabbit poop in the bed.

 The only thing I have to watch out for is the cabbage moth. It's little caterpillars can make a mess of the leaves, chomping holes everywhere. While the leaves are still edible, they aren't as tender when they are being attacked by caterpillars. So I take the time to watch for them. 

Thursday, June 11, 2015

Cane Spider Update

Now for a bit of fun.........

There's a female cane spider living at one of the area's community centers. In the bathroom. Up at the top of a shower curtain. And she's obviously quite successful there because she is huge and tending are large egg case, 

What I find that is cool is that she has been allowed to live. She's in good condition. Getting enough food to reproduce. So she must be doing a wonderful job of killing the bugs at the center. 

I wouldn't mind having this gal living at my place. I get way too many annoying moths, little flies, mosquitos, and other itty bitty flyers and crawlers. My daddy longleggers so a decent job, but one big cane spider like this one could eat far more that a bunch of daddy longleggers.

Feral Cats

Just got back from helping out, once again, at a cat spay/neuter clinic. Every clinic I've volunteered at does between 100-200 cats. 

This kitty has cotton in its ears to muffle sounds. This way the cat will be less stressed and thus the anesthesia will take effect better. 

After a long day, I'm ready for a rant. I know that I am most likely just preaching to the choir, but if what I have to say even helps one cat out there, it is worth it. If it gives just one person something to think about and thus moves them to neuter their cats (or their neighbor's cats), then some cats will have better lives. If rants are not your thing, then stop right now. 

Caution    ....    Rant warning

Hawaii, at least on my island, has to deal with the neglect and irresponsible behavior of previous generations of cat owners. What am I talking about? The appalling huge numbers of non-neutered feral cats that have resulted from the original pet owners not caring that their cats reproduced, not caring that they dumped the kittens out in the woods.  And what is so incredibly depressing is that current pet owners continue this same behavior to this day. Granted, not as great a percentage as before, but I've run into dozens of cat owners who do not control the unwanted litters and who dump kittens. I offer free, free, free neutering only to have it rejected. 

Want to hear their excuses? 

...It's against nature. Oh cut me a break! It's against nature to treat cancer too, so if your child comes up with a childhood cancer, are you just going to sit back and let nature do its thing? If your tooth gets abscessed, are you going to sit at home in agony for weeks until it either rots out or the abscess erodes into your brain? If your wife starts bleeding uncontrollably during child birth, you'll let nature takes its course and she will die? 
...The vet charges too much. Gotcha on that one! I can arrange to have it done for free! Sigh....they don't take me up on it, but just try to wiggle out with some other excuse. 
...My husband won't let me. Really? Let me to talk with him. But it never is allowed. 
...I don't have a cat cage (or I can't get the cat into a cage). No problem. I will lend you a cat trap for free. 
...You can do my female, but not the male. Oooooo, yes I'm talking to a man. How'd you guess! I'm amazed with how many men think it's ok to do females but take it personal when it comes to a male. Gee, I'm not taking your nuts off, just your cat's....though heaven knows that neutering you might be a good idea too. Oops, did I say that?   ;)   You're living your sex life through your cat? Cut me a break! How non-macho is that! Think I'm being too strong? I dare you to come see what happens to all those kittens your cat sires. And by the way, feral tom cats are not happy and blissful. On the contrary, they are stressed, on edge, or at war ALL the time. 
...Cats prefer to live free. Living free should not equate to unbridled reproduction. Reproducing cats are constantly under stress. Very few have the opportunity to relax, be lazy, get fat, enjoy a life of freedom. When was the last time you saw a sleek, chubby, old feral cat that is producing kittens? Neutered ferals have a better chance at attaining the image of a content free-living cat. 
...I don't have the time. No problem. Just give me permission and I will come trap, neuter, and return the cats for you. Only some of the  people I know who have non-neutered outdoor cats have taken me up on the offer. Why not all? 
...Neutered cats get fat. That doesn't have to happen. Just as with people, too much food combined with less activity results in overweight. Neutered cats are no longer under a lot of stress and no longer have to roam constantly. Thus their activity level and anxiety are less. If you are feeding ferals, just feed less once they are neutered. Hey, that will save you money! 
...Neutered cats don't hunt mice and rats. I can say from experience that that's not true. I have had many a neutered cat that were proficient mousers. 

I always ask these resistant owners what they do with the unwanted kittens. Now it's time to see them squirm. I've never had one tell me that they dump them. They insist that they find them homes with a friend, a relative, a ".....". But when I offer to have those kittens neutered for free, the people tap dance. Yup, they dumped them.

Dumped kittens sometimes survive, but not too often unless they got dumped near a feral cat feeding station or somewhere where a kind heart feeds ferals. Most kittens die a horrible death. The lucky ones get run over by cars, savaged by mongooses, killed by dogs, killed by a tom cat. The unlucky die after weeks of starvation. And the very unlucky ones die of thirst. Ever try going 2-3 days without water. A 2-3 weeks without food? 

Hey, ever think what happens to feral cats that wander into a county, state, or federal park? Trap & kill is the policy. Ever watch trapped cat get drowned or shot? That's humane compared to what many private land owners do with feral cats. Antifreeze is a horrible way to die. So it getting beaten to death or getting released into the dog pen with two dogs.

Shocking? Sickening? You bet!!!! So have you talked to anyone with non-neutered cats lately about getting their cats done? Have you volunteered at a spay/neuter clinic? 

Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Saving Money on Food - Eating Better

So many people have emailed asking me about how can they spend less on food and eat better. I suspect that they think that I've discovered the answer on my journey to being self reliant. I can only say what I've done, not what the perfect answer for you is. Besides, im not 100% there yet. im still in the process of figuring out how to spend less and eat better. But here where I am so far........

Foremost.....stop buying commercially prepared foods. That means just about everything in the supermarkets. We gradually transitioned to producing or trading for most of our food. At the same time we weaned ourselves away from most store bought items. But lets say that we weren't growing our own, would it still be possible to do? Sure. We would have needed to adjust our diet and purchase just "real food", things that are zero processed with zero additives. I'd look to buy direct from the grower when possible. I'd check out farmers markest. I'd look into bulk buying or a co-op. 

Next......stop eating out. Or at least drastically reduce it. We are down to two "out-with-friends" meals a week, one a breakfast, the other a dinner. While we could survive just fine cutting these out, we have no plans to. Eating a meal with friends is very important to us and very enjoyable. 

Stop buying at expensive stores.....those little convenience stores can be pricy. And there is a big variation in cost between different supermarket chains. 

Stop wasting food....this is another super biggie for me. I learned to use food that previously I had thrown away. It was hard but I've retrained myself not to leave food go bad in the refrigerator. I've switched to making stir fries, soups, and stews which can use up leftovers. I've learned to freeze or dry my excess. I don't bother to can foods, but that would be another option. During the hectic chapters of my past life, I was immensely guilty of wasting food. Alas, no more. Different lifestyle, different focus. 

Establish a trading network..... these past few years I've created a trading network to turn my excess foods that I produce or acquire into other foods that I want. I have traded for meats, milk, cheese, fruits, veggies, bread, cookies, pies, and even ducks, lambs, chickens. I'm often offered jams, jellies, syrups, dried fruits & veggies, juices, and assorted homemade foods. Last week I traded for some homemade fried chicken that was absolutely lay fantastic. 

I've never kept the records, but I bet I spend a helluva lot less now on food as compared to when I first moved here. Looking back, it was insane how I spent the food budget. Heck, what budget? I just bought food as wanted. And back then I was really habituated to commercial foods. Microwaved food was my thing. No more. 

If I were just growing a small food garden and not doing all the other stuff, like trying for a complete food line, foraging, and trading, I think I'd focus on growing those veggies that are expensive to buy in the stores. Things like sugar snap peas, snow peas, cherry tomatoes, asparagus, etc. Growing those pricey veggies (and fruits) myself would help the food budget. But of course that would mean growing them sensibly. One wouldn't save any money if one were to spend big bucks on fertilizer, pots, potting soil, hand tools, a rototiller, etc. 

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Making More Coffee Trees

Currently I have several dozen (perhaps I'm really up into the hundreds by now) coffee trees on the farm, and I'm always adding a few more as I open space for them. So I have to make new trees. I've started some from seed, but others I've pulled up from under existing trees. Either way, it works fine for creating new baby trees. 

These are coffee beans from one of my trees. 

I'll plant these about 1/2" below the soil surface. They will sprout in anywhere from several weeks to a few months. I've had some take 6 months to germinate. I suppose temperature has a significant bearing on the germination speed. And I have discovered that fresh seeds germinate faster than older seeds.  But all in all, one needs patience when trying to germinate coffee beans. 

These are young trees I pulled up from beneath existing coffee trees. 
They are surprisingly tough plants. I just yank them up and plant them into potting soil. I let them get a bit bigger and establish a root ball before they get planted out to their permanent location. 

This seedling is ready for planting. It's established a nice rootball. I carefully move the seedling into the hole so that I don't lose the soil ball nor break the young roots. 

I've learned that there are all sorts of theories on how best to plant young coffee trees into the ground. Upright. On a slant. On their side. I really don't know if any of it makes any difference. I've always planted my coffee trees like any other tree seedling. They do just fine. 
Above -- planting on a slant. I've seen this done, but I don't do it. Mine go in upright and straight. 

Some of my coffee is in deep shade, some in semi shade, others in sun. The sun trees are the most compact and best bloomers, but the others also survive and produce. It's a good crop for utilizing shady ground that isn't being used. Not much edible likes to grow in shade. Coffee will grow in semi or full shade, although the trees will be stretchy and not compact, nor as productive as sun grown trees. But since I'm not looking for efficient production, that's just fine with me.
Above are flowers on my deep shade coffee. It's just starting to bloom again for the second time this year. 

The coffee from plants grown in deep shade tastes different from sun grown. People tell me that the shade town has more caffeine, but I don't know if that's true. Personally I think that the semi-shade trees produce the nicest coffee, but again, that may be just a mental perception that isn't true. Who knows. 

Sunday, June 7, 2015

Sugarcane Workshop Notes

I hopped over to Maui for a workshop. I'm already growing cane, but I'm surely no expert. I really needed to learn more about this crop. Well, the workshop turned out to be really good. I came back with all sorts of info. I'm posting my new gems of knowledge in order to have a handy diary for myself, plus pass the information along to other cane growers. Warning--- if you're not avid about cane, the rest of this post will be incredibly boring. 

More facts about cane than you ever wanted to know .....

... Sugarcane is a natural hybrid of two wild cane type grasses. Crosses back to these two ancestors are still being done as part of various breeding programs for commercial cane. 
... Sugarcane commonly mutates. I saw a example firsthand of a smooth, straight green cane eminating out of a banded, curved type clump. Interesting. 
... There are tens of thousands of cane varieties around the world. 
... There are a couple dozen Hawaiian varieties (about 30-35). It's difficult at this time to define them correctly because they go by multiple names (about 80 total) depending upon the region where they are being grown or even just the families growing them. 
... There is a sugarcane repository in Florida maintaining varieties. Samples of Hawaiian varieties were sent there many decades ago. Some are now being reintroduced to Hawaii since they went extinct here. 
...The different varieties of Hawaiian cane have different flavors. It can vary from smoky and heavy to light, very sweet, and "greenish". 
...Cane plants have three basic growth habits-- erect, semi erect, and recumbent. 
...Cane can be striped in coloration or solid colored. Color varies from light green to dark green, various shades of yellowish, shades of reddish, maroon, brownish. 
...Identification of the different varieties is accomplished by comparing traits that include growing habit, leaf habit (erect vs dropping), color of stalk, color of leaves, hairs on leaves, base of leaf structure, color of leaf sheath and ring, structure and color of nodes and internodes, type and number of buds, location of the buds, color of the root band of buds, shape of the leaf scar, furrow above the bud, general growth shape of the cane, presence and amount of wax, color of the internal flesh of the stalk. A leaf structure called the oracle is absent on most Hawaiian varieties, and if it does exist, it is very reduced. In some varieties the sheath cracks and splits to allow the growing bud through. Length of internodes not a good indicator. They can wildly vary due to environmental factors, in addition to the fact that internodes are longest at the base of a stalk and closest at the top. 
...Sugarcane is a nitrogen fixer but not via root nodules. Adjacent crops do not show any benefit while cane is alive and growing. Nitrogen fixation bacteria found in the stalk but is not active when soil is fertilie. Hawaiian cane varieties have this bacteria but have not been found to be fixating nitrogen. Why? Most likely soil has too much nitrogen. More research needs to be done. 
...Those having darker flesh have a more molasses like flavor. White canes have "cleaner" or greener flavor. Color is not indicative of sugar content. 
...Being in the grass family, the youngest growth is found at the top of the canes. Therefore the youngest and most viable buds will be on the upper 1/3 of the cane. 
...Although sugarcane produces flowers, most are sterile (cane is a "mule", a cross between two wild cane varieties). What little seed that might be produced has very poor germination. Thus sugarcane is not propagated via seed, but rather from tip cuttings. 
...Cane cuttings can be planted vertically, at an angle, or even laid horizontally and buried. 
...Cane tends to degrade in robust character when unthifty cane is used for propagation. Therefore only use robust canes for propagation. 
...For propagation, use the youngest part of the cane. Use 12"-18" cuttings. Ends do not need to be sealed but some home growers will seal ends with wood ash which acts as a barrier to various diseases and pests. 
...The bud grows to become a new stalk. In some cases the cane falls to the ground because of weight, thus this new stalk can root and become another plant 6-10' away from the mother plant. A form of natural propagation. 
...Allowing buds to grow into stalks, and allowing flowers to develop lowers the sugar content of the talk. Harvest the cane for maximum sugar content before bud growth and flowering. 
...Clumps that become overly stemmy should be cleaned up, removing the weedy stalks. This allows more robust stalks to grow better and have higher sugar content. 
...The sugar content is highest in the upper 1/3 of the stalk. Ok levels in the middle 1/3. Bottom third has poorer sugar content and often has a bit of bitterness. Thus upper 2/3 of cane best for sugar content. 
...If the stalk falls horizontally, the sugar content spreads out the length of the cane, but also the bitter characteristics spread through the length of the stalk too. Thus for home production tie up leaning or falling stalks  to maintain quality in the cane. Horizontal canes not best for home use. 
...Home production can use selective harvesting, taking out individual canes as they are developed sufficiently. It is not uncommon the begin harvesting 10-12 months after initially planting a cutting. Harvesting for maximum sugar should be done before the cane produces a flower or has upper buds developing into shoots. 
...Commercial harvesting cuts all the stalks at one time. Depending upon the variety and farm procedures, harvest is done every one to two years. 
...Clumps keep producing new canes for many years. In home production, a clump can remain vigorous for several years before showing decline. Some varieties need replanting every five years while others may last longer before cane production & quality declines. Commercially cane plants are usually removed and replanted on a set schedule, depending upon growing and harvesting practices. 
...The root clump is fairly shallow. Growth is horizontal. In windy areas, sugar cane is planted deeper into the soil in order to be more stable, less apt to be blown over. 
...A red rot is sometimes seen internally at the base of canes. This is fungal. It reduces the growth of the sugar cane. Juice from such canes is edible and tastes ok, but infected canes should not be used for propagation. 
...Cane is fairly drought tolerant,and is very responsive to water by producing good vegetative growth. 
...Cane grows very poorly in pots -container gardening. 
...Old Hawaiians grew more cane than they could eat or use for ceremonial purposes. It was an important part of their ag sysyem. They discovered that cane could be beneficial for growing sweet potato. Cane was often planted as a field border perpendicular to the prevailing winds and served as a wind break and dew & mist trap, thus significantly increasing soil moisture (5 times higher than soll without without combination cane/rockwall borders) for crops adjacent to it. Also the leaves were used as a mulch, which resulted in better sweet potato crops. Leaves were striped from the canes as soon as they began to decline or yellow. They were not allowed to die and dry out first. Hawaiians also used rows of cane as a nutrient trap to capture minerals and nutrient being leached by heavy rains. Cane's nitrogen fixation ability may have come into play when cane was reincorporated back into the soils. Striped leaves had the nitrogen fixating bacteria which became activated when the still green leaves were used as a mulch. The bacteria starts processing the carbon in the leaf, fixing atmospheric nitrogen. Thus the cane provided nitrogen to the soil, equivalent to 1/3 the nitrogen value of common commercial garden fertilizers of today. (Not sure exactly what that 1/3 actually means or represents.) But modern use has shown green cane leaves being used as a decomposing mulch is an excellent slow release source of nitrogen. 
...Variety "Honua lu'a" - darker flesh, smoky taste. Hairless. Colorful reddish to leaves and sheath, was important for Hawaiian ceremonies. 
...Variety "Wai kea pele" (the smoke of pele) white flesh. Sweet and tasty. Vigorous grower. Very hairy! Need skin protection to work with it due to hairs. 
...Variety "hala li'i" - grown on Ni'ihau but also throughout the state. Not hairy. 
...Variety "honomolino" - Hawaiian type with the most pronounced oracle of all the Hawaiian varieties. Oracle is found on only one side of the leaf sheath. 
...Variety "ula'ula"- very sweet Hawaiian type. Soft flesh. Is susceptible to pests and disease. Dark flesh. Very desirable for fresh eating. 
...Most Hawaiian varieties are erect or semi erect, but lauloa is a recombent.