Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Gardening Tips - The Keepers

I can't even recall al the successful gardening tips I've incorporated into my routine. They are just a normal way of doing business nowadays. So I will try to compare when I started out practicing gardening while living in NJ to my techniques now. 

... Use compost. The idea of using compost works well for my methods. But I don't restrict myself to just traditional hot compost piles. I do sheet composting (aka lasagna gardening) when starting out over low-soil lava areas. I sometimes trench compost between rows of taro. My pallet grow boxes are all a form of composting. 
... Use mulch. Another great garden idea that works super for me. Over the years I've become a gung-ho believer in mulching. 
... Use manures. Manure is a major component of my soil amendment mix. I've learned that while not all manure is created equal, it's all a valuable resource.
... Use urine. Once I got past the ick factor, I began using urine as a routine ingredient in compost and many of the garden beds.
... Homemade sprays + soap sprays. I have a list of various combinations for using in the garden, all homemade. Only occasionally for specific problems do I feel the need to resort to commercial chemicals. 
... Use local resources. Breaking the buy-it-at-the-store habit was difficult, but once I started researching local sourcing, I felt more connected to my region. Local sourcing for me includes using local materials (wood, sand, coral, bone, manure, etc), buying/trading/foraging local foods, hiring local services, that sort of thing. While I still need to buy things from stores (or Amazon), I definitely feel better about doing things locally. 
... Grow what thrives locally. Don't fight Mother Nature. Which translates into, I don't frustrate myself by insisting upon growing summer squash, slicing tomatoes, and all those other veggies that don't do well in my area. And I've learned to grow what thrives here....and have learned to eat them. Wing beans. Pipinola. Sweet potatoes. Yard long beans. Okinawan spinach. Taro. Papaya. 
... Grow veggies in beds rather than single rows. Single rows are easier for machine use, but since I  don't use garden machinery, I tried doing the bed method. 2' to 3' wide beds with permanent walkways work well for me. 
... Multiple plantings spaced apart, as compared to planting a crop in just one spot. This idea sounded not only unnecessary to me, but more time consuming and difficult. But I'm really glad I gave it a try. Scattering my plantings has saved plenty of harvests when I've had attackts of diseases and pests. A problem will often show up in one bed but not in the others that are located in other areas. Example: I lost the peas and beans up by the house one year, but the beds down in the other garden areas gave me a bountiful harvest. So I now have crops planted helterskelter around the farm. It looks odd, but it works. And since the bottom line is to grow food, I do whatever works. 

Monday, December 28, 2015

Gardening Tips -- The Loser List

I must have heard hundreds of gardening tips so far. And I've tried quite a few of them. Oh, some I've never tried because they were too outlandish to be plausible to my sensibilities. I'm sure you've run across some of these. And many others simply didn't apply to my region, so I skipped them. 

Here's a few that I've tried and rejected as not being useful on my homestead.......

... Slug deterrents: I've covered these in an earlier post. Things that I found don't work on slugs include crushed eggshells, coffee grounds, sharp sand, wood ashes. I never tried the suggestion of ground glass because who wants that in their garden? Another tip was to plant veggies in beds rather than rows, stating that slugs would eat the plants along the edges thus leaving the ones in the center alone. I tried that and the slugs apparently didn't read the memo. They attacked everything. 
... Bury a penny under a transplant, especially recommended for eggplants, peppers, and tomatoes. I guess the thought behind this was for the penny to be a source of copper, eh? But heck, pennies aren't made out of copper anymore.
... Bury rusty nails in the garden. Thought?-- a source of iron? But I don't think that iron oxide is a readily available form of iron to plants. Anyway, I've never seen rusty nails make a bit of difference when I tried them. 
... Use household vinegar to kill weeds. Regular vinegar is only 5% acetic acid. I find that it's not strong enough for anything but the most sensitive weeds, and then mostly at the seedling or newgrowth stage. In order to use vinegar for weed control the strength needs to be closer to 20%. And it does the best on a bright sunny day. I'll use 20% vinegar by spraying it for 2-3 days in a row when the sun is super bright combined with no rain. Even then, there are weeds that it doesn't affect much. And most grasses just come back even though their leaves get burned and turn brown. But at least that slows them down considerably.
... Spray diluted milk on plants to control mildew. Although this seems to help delay an outbreak of mildew, I haven't found it to be very effective in treating mildew once I see it on the plants. When I see mildew breaking out on the sunflowers or zinnias, then I can spray the cukes and squashes and somehow delay a mildew outbreak on them. At least, that what it seems. I've never tried a controlled experiment. But once I see mildew, I don't bother wasting the milk anymore. 
... Use water crystals to combat drought. I can't say that I saw any improvement in the plants where water crystals were used compared to beds where it wasn't. And hey, what are those things made of anyway? What sort of chemicals ends up in my soil forever? 
... Don't water the garden on a sunny day. I never understood this bit of advice, because Mother Nature does it all the time. I commonly get a brief shower, then the sun reappears in all it's glory. It never seems to cause any problems in the garden. 
... Don't water at night. Another one that I don't get, because Mother Nature does it all the time at my homestead site.
... Wait until seedlings have two true leaves before transplanting. I've found that most my seedlings do just fine, if not better, transplanting them far younger. In fact, the cabbage family and tomato family all indeed do better for me when transplanted well before first true leaves develop. 
... Don't put fat into the compost pile. Well folks, I've put entire animal carcasses into hot compost piles with no problem. I surely don't de-fat a dead sheep first. And I've disposed of moldy butter via a hot compost pile too. Perhaps the trick is having a hot, active pile. 
... Plant marigolds in the garden to keep bugs out. While I enjoy having marigolds in the garden, I haven't seen them have one lick of success at deterring insects. I've seen my marigolds growing right next to plants having infestations of aphids, stink bugs, mealy bug, scale, whatever. 
... Tilling is bad and destroys the soil. I'm hearing this advice being repeated more frequently lately, along with all sorts of dire warnings of the negative consequences of tilling. It seems to me that the naysayers are equating tilling with destructive conventional plowing techniques resulting in erosion, windblown soil, loss of organic matter, reduction of soil microbes, etc. In my own experience, using the technique of tilling the top few inches of soil between crops along with the practice of using composts, manures, and mulch actually results in vastly improved soil, more earthworms, healthier and more robust crops, higher yields. 
... Don't use grass clippings for mulch. In fact, my number one successful mulching material is grass clippings! Perhaps this warning came about because novices used too thick a layer of clippings or used clippings that came from lawns recently sprayed with chemicals of some sort. I'm not sure. But I'm a big user of clippings and have had great success with them. 
... Don't add wood to soil. Most of the time the advice says not to use any wood chips in a garden. Other times it includes any and all kinds of wood. While I don't have much in the way of wood chips available, I will indeed add wood chips to my compost piles when I have some. I also purposely add broken up small twigs to the compost. Since I seed my compost with fungi (from previous compost and from locally collected mushrooms), I don't see using wood to be a problem. Of course, I'm not over doing the wood either. Plus I use manure and fresh grass clippings, both of which a good sources of nitrogen. Hey, Mother Nature uses wood all the time in her soil making process. Give it a thought. 
... Plant according to the moon cycles. Honestly, I haven't seen one iota of difference. Zero. Nada. Zilch. Any differences I have seen are easily explained via weather patterns, season, plant variety, etc. 
... Speak kindly to your plants. Sing to them. Play soothing music. Again, I haven't seen the slightest bit of difference. 
... Use boiled, de-oxygenated water on seedlings. This is another tip where I haven't seen make the slightest difference. I now use my normal catchment water and the seedlings do just fine. 

Now I'm not saying that all these failed tips are just plain huey. But they surely didn't work for me. 





Saturday, December 26, 2015

Goodbye Piggies

Oh no, not ALL my pigs. Just the last duo of half grown ones. They are up to a good size now, so I posted a message on craigslist a couple of days ago and sold them the first day. That's a record for me. But I guess it happens to have something to do with the holiday season. People are looking for things to put in their imu.

The deal I struck on these pigs was sweet. The buyer happens to be in my town region and has agreed to give me a shoulder roast from each pig. Now that's just fine with me. I get to enjoy naturally fed, home raised pork without the work of slaughter and butchering. And as a bonus he will save the offal and skin that he doesn't want. The slaughter waste gets added to mom's slop n glop, my standard chicken & pig feed. Plus on top of that, his brother fishes from time to time, so I've made a connection for future fish waste. Plus the buyer bought two buckets of taro corms from my garden. Win-win for everyone.....except the pigs and fish I suppose. 

How can I send pigs to their deaths? I feel that if I'm going to be raising livestock on a farm, I have to accept the reality that people eat meat. Meat comes from animals, that were at one time alive. Homestead livestock rearing surely makes the circle of life concept very much a reality. 

Thursday, December 24, 2015

What Time of Day to Harvest

"Dale-----" asked me, "What time of day do you pick your vegetables and fruits? Morning? Afternoon? Evening? "

Truthfully, I pick them when I have time, when I notice that they are ready, or when I need them. Thus that could be anytime during the day. But I do have a habit of working the gardens early in the morning right after tending the livestock. So it's common for me to be harvesting between 8 and 9. But if I'm in the process of making dinner at 6 pm, I surely wouldn't hesitate to go pick veggies and herbs. 

Do I notice a difference in the flavor of things picked in the early morning versus evening? No, not really. But then I'm no food connoisseur. 

I've read recommendations that harvesting for best quality should be done in the early morning. The reasoning is that overnight the plants have had the opportunity to rehydrate (absorb water) and convert the starches produced the previous day into sugars, thus the fruits and veggies would be more crisp, juicy, and tastier. I notice that most veggies are definitely crisper in the early cooler mornings. 

One thing I learned, regardless of when the veggies and fruits are picked, it's best to rinse them in cool water and keep them cool. That rule doesn't apply to everything, but most things stay fresher if kept cool and moist. Things that I don't cool down are potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and bananas. But I do get them out of the sun. 

Some veggies I'll store in the kitchen in a vase. Vase? Yes. Celery, Okinawan spinach cuttings, sprigs of various herbs, cut greens (broccoli leaves, spinach, etc), Chinese cabbage, bok choy. I'll use a vase when refrigerator space is in short supply. Sticking veggie stems in water will keep them fresh for a couple days, especially useful if I happened to pick too much or changed my mind about what to make for dinner. 

Monday, December 21, 2015

Update - Walk In Closet

I haven't posted an update lately. I'm still working on the walk in closet, but I keep getting sidetracked. So I'm trying to make an effort to focus on this project more than I have. 

The interior walls are now 3/4 complete. The cedar tongue n groove is all used up so I need to go pick up more. With no more cedar to use, attention has been turned to the trim. The interior window trim is a simple mitered picture frame with no window sills. It's a closet, so window sills would get in the way of shelves and storage. So why bother. 

My mitering efforts in the past have been total failures, so David milled and mitered all the trim. 


The outside siding is all in place now, and the windows are trimmed out, plus everything is caulked. Next step was staining, something I'm quite good at. The grey stain is my own mix of 3/4 harbor grey and 1/4 antique bronze, Behr solid exterior stain (I'm noting it here so that if perchance I forget the formula in the future, I can come back here and find it. At my stage of life, accurate recall has become an uncertainty.) coming out a color I call Ohia. The window trim is a 100% antique bronze. 


The battens are going up but we're still in the process of finishing up a few on the long wall, plus each end wall still needs the batten trim. 


The end wall by the banana trees is complete except for the batten trim. 


Same for the far end. 


It's getting there. Just a bit more exterior work. But a lot more interior work to get done. 

Next up......
...run the electrical for the ceiling lights
...get more cedar tongue n groove and finish the last interior wall
...trim out the closet doorways (no doors)
...put up foam insulation in the ceiling
...cedar the ceiling and sheath the rafters
...install the flooring
...build shelving and hanger space 
...move in all our junk in order to decluttering the rest of the house while still saving room for our clothing in the closet

Next house project---- finish the bedroom. 







Sunday, December 20, 2015

Don'tcha Just Hate It When.......

I seem to be having an on going battle with my gate entrance. It's all one sided of course, with me myself being the primary dancer. You see, I have to get out and open the gate each time. "Efficient laziness" dictates that I pull just far enough inside so that I can open and close the gate behind me, plus not have to walk too much extra in order to do that. Thus the game...or dance.

Here the scenario.....
...pull up to gate
...get out of truck, unlock and open gate
...get back into truck and pull through
...get out of truck to close and lock gate
...drive on

Sounds simple, right? But this is how it actually happens far too often....
...pull up to gate
...get put of truck, fight with lock (Gawd, I got to remember the bring that spray grease down here), open gate
...get back into truck and pull through
...get out of truck to close gate. Discover that I once AGAIN failed to pull forward enough, for the umphteenth time. Blast, dang, gawdangit, bugger. Climb back into truck and pull forward another foot. 
...get out of truck to close and lock gate. Try to remember to put the spray grease into the truck for the next time.
...drive on. Promptly forget about the spray grease. 


No, I didn't stage this!!!!!! By far this is the worse, or closest, miss I've had. I even tried rocking the gate so that I could get it past the truck. I couldn't close the truck's tail gate without unloading numerous long t-posts. I had considered it, but concluded it was less effort to climb in and move the truck than remove all the t-posts.  

Now I gonna try to remember to bring down a post, rock, marker, whatever to designate how far I need to pull up the truck for the future. Ooooo, I'll just bring it down with the spray grease on my next trip out. 

Saturday, December 19, 2015

Beet Growing Notes

Beets is another crop that I grow year around on my homestead. And they really grow well here. But beets are more difficult to grow at my seed farm location where it is drier, hotter, and windy. Rather than trying to overcome the obstacles at the seed farm, I only grow beets on the homestead. Besides, I've never gotten the beets to bolt to flowering, so I can't save my own seed. 

Germination
I don't have any problems getting beets to germinate. 

Types of Beets
    Because of the supermarket influence, I thought all beets were round and red. Even my grandmother only grew round red ones, so it was quite a surprise to see that beets came in other variations. Now, these variations came with an advantage. You see, hubby doesn't like the idea of eating purple veggies and he lumps beets into that group. But he will eat white and yellow beets. Ta-da! 
    Besides coming in different colors, they also come in different shapes. I've become a big fan of the elongated beets, but alas they only come in red. 

Harvesting
When to harvest a beet is easy. I pick them when they get the size I want, anywhere from ping pong ball size to large golf ball size. Many varieties can grow a lot bigger without becoming woody or pithy, but I like them smaller for tenderness, sweetness, and ease of processing. If beets are left to grow too long, they tend to become too fibrous to eat. 

Growing Tips 
Beets don't require deep soil, so I take advantage of that and plant them in my shallow beds. These beds have 3-4 inches of soil atop the lava. That's just enough to get good shaped beets. Before seeding, I will till in a modest amount of compost but not extra manure. Plus I use my standard soil amendment mix (coral sand wood ash, etc). The beets seem to grow better when I've tilled those 3-4 inches of soil to make a light, aerated bed. I sow the seeds about 1 1/2" apart in rows 6"-8" apart. This is with the intention of eventually thinning the plants to 6" apart. The neat thing about beets is that the thinnings are edible. Good for using in stirfry and soup. 

Problems 
The only problems I've had with beets are:
...overcrowding, thus no beets. I've learn to correct this by thinning the plants to 6" when they are young. 
...stunted and fibrous due to too warm soil and/or dry soil. I've corrected this by mulching the beets and watering regularly during a drought. Especially when growing in such shallow beds, I have to keep a close eye on the soil moisture. 
...flea beetles. These little pests have defeated me thus far. When the population is low, I seem to control them well enough by using a soap spray. But every once in awhile I get a monstrous ourptbreak of flea beetles. My only recourse thus far has been to tear all the beets out (feed them to the livestock) and don't grow beets in that same spot until the flea beetles are gone. Luckily I have plenty of space so I can reseed beets in a different location. 

Varieties I Grow
Albino (this white beet goes by several other names), Golden, Detroit Dark Red, Cylindra. I also grow some of the hybrids and other standards off and on, including Boro, Merlin, and Red Ace plus others.